In order to avoid taking sides, Jaunted divided its World Cup Championship spectatorship between Brooklyn's Jolie Restaurant for the first half and Manhattan's La Casalinga for the second half plus. As fate would have it, our timing was impeccable.
We arrived at Jolie just past kick-off. All tables were occupied, and we stood in front of a television in the front bar area. The crowd, much more American than French in the standing-room-only area, spilled out onto the street. Our Kronenbourg ran $6. The audience was buzzing, captivated, over the moon with Zidane's early goal.
At halftime we made the short journey on the F and by foot up 1st Street to a table at the much less energized La Casalinga. The crowd was clearly pro-Italy, though it included a handful of contrarian France fans. In place of the supercharged participatory spirit at Jolie, La Casalinga remained subdued until the penalty kicks ended with an Italian victory. Our Pizzetta Milano, americano, and San Pellegrino set us back $11.
Closing thoughts: [1] the World Cup should happen more often than once every four years; [2] La Casalinga should sell Italian beer; [3] A Kronenbourg should not cost $6.
It's about that time, kids; the World Cup Breakfast Beer Express is pulling into the station. The third place game, between Germany and Portugal, is tomorrow, and the Final this Sunday between France and Italy. Really, we love both cuisines equally, making it impossible to pick a favorite.
Nonetheless, for that very reason--culinary popularity--you've got plenty of viewing options in the city, though you might want to think twice about hitting up the Olive Garden--it won't have very many fans there, and you'll fill up on the unlimited salad and breadsticks. Also, at all of these locations, reservations and calling ahead is highly recommended. To wit:
Italy
La Casalinga: A tiny restaurant on 1st Avenue and 7th, it's filled with spectators during recent games. The TV is right in the dining area and angled directly to face the all seats in the restaurant, making La Casalinga the closest approximation of watching the game in someone's kitchen.
Le Streghe: This swank West Broadway restaurant is where we watched Italy in the first round, and it was full at 10am on a weekday, so expect utter insanity this time around. They have a special menu during the game, and most of the tables are oriented to see the game on the projection screen in the back of the restaurant.
L'Angolo: This café is where NYT columnist George Vescey is purported to watch matches. It would be more exciting if he didn't write about the misbegotten American team so much, but with light sandwiches and salads, it may be more suited for an afternoon game, anyway Plus, if Italy loses, you won't be saddled with too big a bill.
France:
Opia: One of GQ's top ten soccer bars in the U.S. (a rather dubious distinction, like "least deformed"), this tony midtown eatery has a big screen set-up for watching the game. There's also a cozy den area, but given how hot it was at other World Cup watching venues, you may want to bring a sweat towel if that's where you're headed. Opia is owned by retired French soccer star Youri Djorkaeff, although we hear he's in Germany at present. Bonus: It's possible to reserve online.
Bar Tabac: A French staple on Smith Street in Brooklyn, you can bet on this brasserie being packed with true bleu fans. The all-French wine list and French bar snacks will help ease the tension during the match, and they'll be open at 10am on Sunday, so you can ensure you'll be "ready" for the start of the match.
As for English fans, you'll find them anywhere alcoholic beverages are sold.
As many readers know by now, the Ukrainian World Cup squad suffered a painful drubbing against the Italian team on Friday, 3-0. It was to be expected, but that didn't stop fans from congregating in droves at the Ukrainian Sports Club on 2nd Avenue and 7th Street for the match.
We could have guessed it would be full there; the Sports Club was only place in New York City that had a poster of Ukrainian star Andriy Shevchenko in their front window since the end of the 2004 European Cup. The Club itself offers a viewing experience similar to that at an Elks Club or a Boy Scout meeting; there's plenty of linoleum, fake wood paneling and brown carpeting to go around.
Chairs were parked around big-screen TV, and fans were crowded behind the seats. Team Jerseys were even available for purchase, and we would have been tempted if we could have gotten a discount after Italy's first goal in the sixth minute. Before that quick strike, the room was all nervous anticipation and excitement, filling with chants of "U-kray-ee-na!" whenever the Ukranians touched the ball.
We were glad to see that even the team least likely to advance had support, although we sure noticed a lot of newly displayed Italian flags outside one the way home. Coincidence? We think not.
Dialing back the crazy as part of our World Cup in NYC coverage was in order yesterday, and we figured that the Spain v France match would be the best for doing it. French fans are notorious for their indifference towards Les Bleus, and the Spanish, well, we didn't have a good feeling. We wanted to be someplace a bit more restful than previous venues.
We chose tiny 14-seat Mercadito on Avenue B, which is Mexican but is still running specials during every game that they show: Tasty $5 appetizers, $5 beers, and $2 Coronitas, little child-size beers for those who don't want to commit to an Aussie-level of fandom during the game.
Watching the game there was enjoyable (and, as France beat perennial disappointment Spain, we're glad we weren't at La Nacional) and relaxed experience. The Spanish took and early lead but of course flamed out by the end of the game, as they are wont to do.
This weekend's games will surely return to a level of soccer enthusiasm heretofore unseen in New York (particularly Argentina's match against Germany), as only the big boys are left, so prepare yourselves. We know we're ready. Look for our round-up of where to watch all the quarter-final matches tomorrow.
As we sat down at the Sunburnt Cow on Avenue C today to watch the Aussies take on heavy favorites Italy, the bartender explained the specials the bar was running for the game . "All you can eat breakfast buffet for $10, and all you can drink beer and well liquor for $25". Wow. When we noted that anyone taking advantage of the drink special was committed to their team, especially for a weekday game at 11am, the bartender explained further. "Probably only 5% of the customers will do the special," he said, "but that 5% will drink $50 worth of beer."
The Aussies played the game today with a similar level of commitment; Italy was down ten men most of the match and the Italians only squeaked by on a questionable penalty kick during injury time. When the ball hit the back of the net, it sucked the air out of the room at the Cow. A tough loss, but an enjoyable 90 minutes nonetheless.
We learned a lot during the game: Toohey's, the Australian beer with good ads, maybe should focus more on the whole taste thing, and that's not an ostrich on the Aussie's jerseys, it's an emu. Pronounced E-mew, no less. Finally, it's hard not to love a team where support is shown by yelling "Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie" at the top of your lungs when they have the ball. We hope to see the Socceroos again in 2010.
In light of this weekend's World Cup elimination rounds, we thought it would be wise to take a look back at awhat we've learned thus far watching games here in NYC, complete with recommendations on where to watch upcoming matches. To wit:
What We Learned: Supporting England will always make you hurt deep down inside, but at least you can wash down the pain with beans, chips, and sausages.
Who: Portugal v Netherlands 3pm EST Sunday
Where to Watch: Tintol or Tonic, 155 W 45th St or 727 7th Avenue
What We Learned: Tonic is meant to be packed with Dutch fans who don't have a restaurant to call their own in New York City, and Tintol was hard to find during the Puerto Rican Day Parade, but is meant to serve tasty Portugese tapas. Won't somebody find those poor Dutch somewhere to go?
What We Learned: The Aussies are behind their team in full force, but unlike English soccer fans they are still able to play nice with the opposition. Italian fans, on the other hand, aren't even forgiving of their own team.
What We Learned: Supporting any team is a lot easier when there's live band and booty-shakin' action at the same time. Come prepared to sweat if you're cheering on Brazil.
This was out first visit to a bar where it was a complete bust. We butted up against our first cover charge, at Novecento, an Argentinean restaurant on West Broadway in Manhattan (very near La Streghe, coincidentally). While it wasn't a horrible deal--$20 got you in the door with a two drinks and food--it seemed kind of pointless to be ordering food where there wasn't a single place to sit in the whole joint a half-hour before kick-off. No wonder Argentina's economy is collapsing, what with cover charges being imposed left and right.
We ended up at Slainte on Bowery near Houston; and it made us realize that there's something to be said for watching World Cup matches at an unaffiliated bar. Especially when we could have paid $20 to watch a scoreless tie.
You don't have to worry about wearing the wrong colors; you are free to shrug off a loss of the team you support without being dragged down by the despair of your fellow fans; and there's usually a place to sit without someone blocking you view. That last one hasn't happened anywhere else yet.
Still, we hope it's the only time we are unable to get in somewhere, and we'll likely try Novecento again, in spite of their cover charge. Next time, though, we'll get there early, wearing a snazzy powder-blue number we've been saving for the occasion.
One thing that has struck us in particular on our tournament-long one-team one-bar pub crawl is how classically representative many of these bars (and fans) are of their respective countries. The English fans really were depressed; the Brazilans exuberant and so forth. We hate to stereotype, but this almost feels the opposite--it's like getting a two hour break to revel in a sort of joyous nationalism.
La Streghe, on West Broadway in Manhattan, was the best of the best in that category for today's Czech Republic-Italy match. The Italians were in control for much of the game and won 2-0, but that didn't stop the fans from criticizing every missed opportunity (the photo above is after a missed chance by the Italians on a breakaway) and gesticulating wildly when they scored. It was a lot of fun; maybe we were excited because of the amount of espresso we drank at the bar, but at least half of it was from the atmosphere.
Also, a tip for anyone planning to watch a game during the elimination round at Le Streghe: No need to get there early. Like the Australian and English joints, Le Streghe was packed at game time, but unlike those other two, it was rather empty tens minutes earlier. What's more, despite the enthusiasm of Italy's supporters, everything felt rather formal; most fans wore blue dress shirts and sat at the restaurant's tables together, and the room fell silent during lulls in the action.
The Italians are through to the next round, and won't have to face Brazil as a result of their win. That must be worthy of another espresso, no?
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by artextor
