Earlier this summer, we went wine tasting in New York's Finger Lakes region. Not all the wine we had was worth drinking, but these places deserve a stop.
Make sure to step over the cat when you walk into Chateau LaFayette Reneau. This winery, on the east side of Seneca Lake, keeps things rustic with its tasting room in a converted barn and its famous-for-Upstate feline mascot.
Like many vineyards in the area, Reneau levies a tasting fee of $4, but you'll get to keep the glass--and you get to try up to 12 wines. (Or more! On our recent stop, they let us sample all 20 offerings.)
After your epic flight of Rieslings and Chardonnays, stake out a spot on the back porch and unroll your picnic supplies. If you'd like to linger longer, there's also an inn on the property.
Earlier this summer, we went wine tasting in New York's Finger Lakes region. Not all the wine we had was worth drinking, but these places deserve a stop.
No real trek through the Upstate wine country is complete without a stop at Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars. It's a bit of a drive to get there, but if it weren't for Dr. Frank, there might not be Finger Lakes wine.
Growing up in the Ukraine, the doctor studied methods to grow high-quality vinifera grapes (think Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Riesling) in colder climates. When he later moved to the Finger Lakes, his winery, started in 1962, was the first to grow these European varieties in the area--and the first to prove it could be done.
After Dr. Frank passed away in 1985, his family took over, continuing the production of top quality wines. You'll also find some more esoteric stuff here, like Rkatsiteli (a white), Fleur de Pinot Noir (a non-vintage red) and a Blanc de Blancs (a Champagne-style bubbly).
Earlier this summer, we went wine tasting in New York's Finger Lakes region. Not all the wine we had was worth drinking, but these places deserve a stop.
Despite the name, not all the wineries in this region actually overlook lakes, and the best of that bunch is undoubtedly Six Mile Creek. Just a 7-minute drive from downtown Ithaca, the winery is almost urban in its setting at the south end of Cayuga Lake.
Owners Nancy and Roger Battistella opened their vineyard in 1987, focusing on small yields and the local microclimate. Unlike many of the other wineries north of Six Mile Creek, where the deep lake provides a moderating influence, the growing season is particularly short in Ithaca. Because of that only white wine grapes are grown on-site.
That said, all the vinification and bottling happens here, and thanks to the Battistella's use of grapes from other regions, the reds are some of the best made in the Finger Lakes. Particularly interesting is Quintessence, a blend that varies in composition from vintage to vintage. Also distinctive is Six Mile Creek's grappa--though it's not for the faint of heart!
Earlier this summer, we went wine tasting in New York's Finger Lakes region. Not all the wine we had was worth drinking, but these places deserve a stop.
Unlike many of the wineries on Seneca Lake, Villa Bellangelo sits a little bit off Highway 14. We actually drove right past it, but after whipping a quick U-turn, we realized that there's a big sign marking the drive.
Bellangelo rocks an Italian vibe, complete with a Vespa on the porch of the tasting room. The theme continues in the wines, which are mostly dry. You'll find plenty of crisp whites--we liked the stainless steel-aged Chardonnay--and an atypical-for-the-region Sangiovese. (That's the same grape Italians use in Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino.)
Perhaps the biggest surprise at Bellangelo, though, isn't the wine on offer. The tasting room has free WiFi and plenty of seating, making it a great spot for checking in with the office while enjoying a glass of wine and a sweeping view of the lake.
Okay, it's not Napa, but there are some great finds in New York's Finger Lakes wine country. We'll be drinking it all in this week, and mapping our favorites.
Down by the shore of Cayuga Lake, Sheldrake Point is another off-the-main-drag winery and tasting room that we love. It also has a nice bistro that makes it a perfect stop in the middle of a marathon day of wine tastings.
First, though, the wine: Sheldrake offers up a combo of free tastes and a premium list, so you can decide how much you'd like to drink. The list of wines is fairly large, and it's estate grown, meaning the stuff in the bottle comes from the vines you just drove past. Most of the basic bottlings are quite nice; don't bother with the over-priced barrel reserves.
After a tasting, it's lunch time. Sheldrake's Simply Red Cafe has some cheese plates and appetizer-y stuff, but go for the entrees. The mussels are steamed in green curry, and the quiche is nice and hearty. Just make sure to leave room for the "Slow Ass" molasses, apple and raisin spice cake.
Okay, it's not Napa, but there are some great finds in New York's Finger Lakes wine country. We'll be drinking it all in this week, and mapping our favorites.
Miles Wine Cellars caught our interest from the get-go, mostly because it shares a name with Paul Giamatti's loveably pathetic character in Sideways. A short jog off the major highway running down the western shore of Seneca Lake, Miles is a perfect spot for a picnic and, of course, some wine tasting.
Before you get to the bar, though, take a walk through the Greek Revival tasting room and HQ. Owners Doug Miles and Suzie Hayes say spirits occupy the house, though it was early enough in the day that we didn't see any apparitions on our visit.
When it comes time to taste, the deal here is the same as at Rooster Hill: Five tastes cost $2.50, and you'll keep the glass. Miles has a fairly small production, so they decide what you get to taste. (This keeps the good stuff in stock.) When we were there, the '05 Pinot Noir was drinking quite nicely, as was the '05 Riesling.
Okay, it's not Napa, but there are some great finds in New York's Finger Lakes wine country. We'll be drinking it all in this week, and mapping our favorites.
Overlooking the eastern fork of Keuka Lake, just south of Penn Yan, Rooster Hill Vineyards churns out some surprisingly good wines. Fortunately, the winery's friendly staff is happy to pour you a taste or three.
Just pop in to the rustic-chic tasting room and belly up to the marble-topped bar. You'll get five tastes for $2.50 and you keep the wine glass. (A few winks and a nod might score you an extra sip or two... Not that we'd know.)
We liked the award-winning Traminette, which had a little sweetness, but a crisp acidity to balance out the sugar. On the red side of things, Cabernet Franc is a safe bet in the Finger Lakes, and the '04 we tasted delivered. We also snuck a taste of a surprisingly good Pinot Noir that was on the reserve list when we dropped in.
Okay, it's not Napa, but there are some great finds in New York's Finger Lakes wine country. We'll be drinking it all in this week, and mapping our favorites.
Any trip to the Finger Lakes--at least any trip revolving around food and wine--should start with a visit to the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua, New York. The two-story visitors center is way more fun than "visitors center" makes it sound thanks to casual wine tastings, wine pairing and cooking classes and a stellar cafe serving up dishes made with local, organic products.
The tasting room, as nice as it is, doesn't deliver a lot of value. Wine flights lack focus and are overpriced. You're likely to end up convincing yourself that New York wine isn't worth the trouble. The Taste of New York lounge upstairs is the place to go for drinks.
Outside on a deck overlooking Canandaigua Lake or in the dining room, the wine list in the lounge reps the best New York has to offer. Finger Lakes wines are prominent, but Long Island's best make appearances, too. Paired with a charcuterie plate or cheese board, a Dr. Frank Riesling or Bedell Cellars Merlot will make you forget all about over-hyped California wines.
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