Direct your driver* to head to the seafood warungs near the Four Seasons Hotel Jimbaran Bay. If you don't specify these, the southern range of warungs ("warung" is an informal restaurant), then you'll end up at the northern ones which are slightly pricier, slightly more formal, slightly busier and have a crappier view of the runway action at Bali-Denapasar Airport.
You'll pull into a small parking lot, off of which are about 6 different warungs. We liked the middle oneTeba Mega Cafebecause it wasn't rickety, the servers spoke passable English, the presentation and prices were perfect and it didn't have chaise sun loungers to attract speedo-d tourists. We could eat near the water's edge, free from the stench of suntan lotion mixed with sweat.
At the warung, you first pick what type of freshly caught seafood your want (straight from the tank) and it will be weighed. Price is based on weight, and of course lobsters top the list. We opted instead for clams with a most mouthwatering sauce, regular prawns, a king prawn and a squid. All of this is delivered with rice, a side of garlicky greens, and various chili condiment sauces. Grab a Bintang, lime squash or coconut water to wash it all down.
Plan to spend around 112,000 IDR ($12.20) per person for a HUGE meal.
An added bonus is the prime plane spotting you can go, simply while sitting beachside at your table. The main runway for Ngurah Rai (DPS) Airport lies perpendicular, jutting out into the ocean on the horizon. From this far south on Jimbaran Bay, you can easily watch planes taxi, takeoff and land. Bring the binoculars and the telephoto lens!
Our full "Awesome Day on Bali" series:
· Breakfast at Biku
· Late morning at the "Starbucks Temple"
· Noon drinks
· Seafood lunch on Jimbaran Bay
· Afternoon and evening surfer-spotting on Bingin Beach
· Sunset cliff-side
*Private car info: We recommend hiring a private car and driver if you plan on doing a full day of sightseeing and touring Bali. It's not particularly luxurious; it's something of the norm, since Bali is huge and the streets are not pedestrian-friendly. Any hotel should easily be able to arrange a car; we got ours through the Anantara Seminyak for $45/day.
[Photos: Cynthia Drescher]