Pints or Pancakes? London's Burgeoning Brunch Scene at The Modern Pantry

Brunch would, without a doubt, lose to the Sunday pub roast in a London-polled popularity contest. We often lament that our favorite two-in-one meal hasn't gained more of a following in the U.K., but such is a world where pints rule over pancakes.

Having made this observation, we've tasked ourselves with traversing the city in search of stellar brunches: restaurants where mimosas are poured with reckless abandon, where flapjacks (done the Yank way) come served with bacon rashers and maple syrup, and where locals linger over the midday meal with a copy of the Observer by their side.

The Modern Pantry is a winner on the London brunch circuit, with a menu of rustic yet elegantly prepared dishes tinged with the influence of many European cultures. On a recent trip, we were delightfully stunned to find blueberry and ricotta pancakes served with a mixed berry reduction and cr�me fraiche; though the pancakes were not thoroughly American (spongier and more moist, less fluffy as we traditionally know them), they were superb and just sweet enough to find us polishing off the entire generous serving.

Other current brunch items include Vattalapam spiced French toast with an apple and tamarind puree, maple syrup and bacon, eggs served with everything from pan-friend haloumi to grilled chorizo and plantain fritters, and smoked salmon with yuzu hollandaise.

Through April 16th, the restaurant brings their eclectic cuisine to Soho's Meza for a limited-run pop-up. Our reservations were booked long ago, and you may find a full review gracing the website in the future. Reservations are limited, so you'll need to move swiftly if you are hoping to squeeze in for a taste of Chef Anna Hansen's full seven-course tasting menu, or some of the Pantry's most popular dishes.

Photo: Ewan-M, via Flickr

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