Jaunted

It’s all English classics on the menu here – fish pie, steaks, as well as further fetched things like wagyu burgers. The Head Chef, Gavin Austin, promises “a cuisine that is highly focused, with bold flavours and a marked personality”.

Rather too bold for us, unfortunately. The chips were massively oversalted, the burger was a bit tepid, and the fish pie was too big, a bit uggers, and not great. We tried a pudding for fairness’s sake – apple crumble – and it was equally underwhelming. And it all came in at a fairly pricey £38 a head.

The floor was so creaky that you could hear it over the music, and the service lurched between unbothered, bothered that we were taking too long to choose, and obsessive compulsive – having our napkins refolded and put on the table when we went for a pitstop in the ladies room. No wonder only three tables were occupied.

All in all, a big Could Do Better. Nice wine and good starters though. If they only work on the rest of the food and the screwed up floor, the restaurant could be as nice as the hotel. In the meantime, we’re off to a gastropub.

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