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Life is Good: Wine-Tasting in The Lavaux Vineyard Terraces

June 3, 2009 at 4:53 PM | by kate winick | 0 Comments

In continuing our European Vacation series, (we've already gone to Rome, France, Berlin and Turkey), our newest correspondent, Kate Winick, is fresh off a trip to Geneva where she spent some time lakeside. Here's her guide to Lake Geneva.

Thirty kilometers of UNESCO World Heritage site stretch along the northern shore of Lake Geneva, from Montreux to Lausanne, and from the lake to the lower slopes of the mountains, comprised of snaking miles of stone walls, tightly nestled villages, and most importantly—vineyards. Called The Lavaux Vineyard Terraces, the neat rows of vines upon vines have been growing from grapes into wine here since the 11th century.

As is common with many small wine-growing regions in Europe, most of the wine produced here is drunk locally or exported within the rest of Europe, so carpe vino and have a glass or several.

Each of the eleven villages has a cellar open to the public, where the producers have different varietals to sample. You can catch the Train des Vignes from Lausanne, which tours through the highlights, but as usual, its worth it to get off the beaten path and explore: you’ll see numerous hikers along the roadside (not exactly an alpine challenge, but do allow some time for your stroll; it’s more arduous that it looks) who are happily wandering from cellar to cellar on a bright afternoon.

Of course, this is Europe, and where there’s good wine, there’s good food. There are some excellent restaurants scattered throughout the Lavaux, but our favorite to take advantage of the elevation is Le Baron Tavernier.

Located in the town of Chexbres, the old restaurant and hotel are beautiful, but it’s the spectacular view from the deck that is not to be missed.

Order the perch, if it’s available, a local favorite, straight out of the lake below, or else the comparable fera—sweet, firm white fish that pair beautifully with a glass of Chasselas, the most popular local grape. We sampled wines by pointing in various directions at different fields, but that would be our pick if you prefer a more refined approach to your restaurant dining.

That full, sated feeling carried us happily back down to sea level, but calorie-burning was imminent—it was time to get out on the water for a face-full of Lake Geneva.

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