The city of Lausanne is the second-largest on Lake Geneva, and sports fans, here is your mecca: home to the headquarters of the Olympic committee, the Athletissima conference, a major marathon, and the Olympic Museum, this is a city that puts sport at its heart.
More of a student town than Geneva (the university here is one of the best in Switzerland), there are bars, restaurants, and shopping galore, and the historic and adorable old town is nearly car-free, pleasant for pedestrians.
We continued on from Lausanne to the east, sticking close to the view of the shore, when signs began to appear for one of Switzerland’s other characteristic water-based activities—the thermal springs. Evian-les-Bains boasts the Evian Royal Resort, with its famous thermal spas, mineral soaks that are good for whatever ails you; the local economy depends on you keeping well hydrated with the bottled water we all know and love and overpay for in cafes (the company—and the spring— is located here) and getting loose enough to hit the Casino d’Evian on the waterfront, the largest themed casino in Europe.
What it’s themed after, we couldn’t tell you, since other attractions were calling: the Chateau de Chillon in Montreux, a 12th century castle perched on the same rocky island site since the Bronze Age, the scenic mélange of old resorts along the waterfront in Vevey, and finally, an aperitif in Lutry, which is quite simply one of the prettiest villages on earth.
After 24 hours of looking at the lake, we finally dove in to the mountain-chilled water off the slippery stone jetty, and then strolled through the twisty alleyways and courtyards, before settling in to warm up on a sunny terrace with a well-earned pastis.
It was time to take our eyes off the lake for a moment, to head a bit farther up the mountains—a new view of Lac Leman and some local libations await in the Lavaux.
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[Photo: ErikCharlton]


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