Jaunted

We went to Cemberlitas, built in 1584 and frequented by both locals and tourists alike. Cemberlitas is located near the Grand Bazaar and very close to the tram.

There are plenty of interesting details to expect when going into a hammam. We'll take you through our thought process.

First thought for those game: "OK, I'm open minded to a new, quintessential experience." Then we enter Cemberlitas during their rush hour. This leads to panic. Second thought: "Is it going to be too crowded? Will it be dirty?" We're tough though and we see other English-speaking Westerners going in so we just move aside the sanitation hesitation.

We decide on a scrub and a rub (45 minute massage) costing less than $60. We're given soap, oil massage, a scrub mitten and little plastic tokens that explain that we get a scrub and massage. We enter the locker room and amazingly it's modern and clean. Third thought: "Oh, wow! Phew! We're impressed. It's clean."

The no English thing is a challenge. We stand naked -- save for a towel and bright orange flip flops until we're finally hustled into the steam room by a staffer. Inside the steam room is a lesson no mother or grandmother ever mentioned. Inside is total nudity and nudity of all shapes and sizes. Women really don't have "the same body parts." We stand a moment and take it in. Then one of the dozen topless scrub ladies who all boast pendulous breasts, post-partum bellies and a waist towel pushes us forward.

Our towels are whisked away. (They're for laying on; not covering up.) We surrender. We're all sardines on that hot plate and nakedly waiting our turn. While it's not conventionally relaxing, there is something refreshing about the treatment. The massage is just OK for those wanting deep tissue.

Beware: there is no graceful way to roll over on a slab of marble that is slippery with soap and water. (The scrubbers signal a flip for you to sit up with a gentle smack of the tush.)

The hammam is a community event. Scrubbers are singing, gossiping and laughing like it's just another day in the neighborhood -- and it is for them. For those who can leave inhibitions at the door, the hammam is fascinating and relaxing in a non Western way. It's also a great way to embrace any imperfections and typically unwanted rolls of fat -- on everyone.

Shira Levine's trip to Turkey was made possible by the Turkish Culture and Tourist Office.

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