La Route Du Cidre
Start your drive in the village of Cambremer itself, and head northeast towards the village of Grandouet to start. From there, just stop in at any of the farms advertising cider and calvados, a rocket fuel-like apple brandy, wherever you see such a sign. Most distilleries are open Monday-Saturday from about 10:00am into the late afternoon.
Here is a complete map of the trail.
Must-Stop: Domaine Dupont
One of our favorite producers in the area is the Domaine Dupont, which is right off Route D16 near the village of Victot-Pontfol. The Duponts have been farmers in the area for centuries, but it was not until 1887 when Jules Dupont, great-grandfather of the current owner Jerome, started making cider and calvados. Since then, Jules’s son Louis, grandson Etienne, and great-grandson Jerome, have taken over the family business, now farming 27 hectares with over 6000 apple trees, and producing not only cider, but also calvados and a sort of hybrid of the two called pommeau.
What sets Dupont apart from other producers is their commitment to very high standards in the farming and distilling process. Many of their ciders are produced using only organic apples as well. Just a note, Dupont ciders are not actually AOC Cru de Cambremer because the bureaucratic process from bottling to drinking would make it difficult for the cider to make it to the consumer at its freshest, so the Duponts have decided to forego the designation. That just sort of makes us like them even better.
The other reason Dupont might be worth a visit is because you can find some of their products in your local Whole Foods, but to get the good stuff like the champagne-like "Colette" label cider, you have to pay a visit to the area. D16, 14430 Victot-Pontfol, +33 2 31 63 24 24
Of course, you didn’t come all this way just to go to a single distillery, so check out this list of other producers in the area. During your tours, you will find out how cider is fermented, take a look at the antique stills many farmers use to make their calvados, and stroll through the apple orchards that make this region famous.
Don’t Forget The Cheese
Though this might be apple country, you’ll notice the preponderance of cows because this is also the land of dairy. If you take a close look at the map, you’ll find some of France’s most famous cheese appellations including Camembert, Pont L’Eveque and Livarot. When you get sick of all the cider and calvados, you can take an afternoon to visit the informative and slightly touristy Fromagerie Graindorge in Livarot. There you will learn all about the cheese-making process, the area’s different appellations, Normandy’s history, and even take a picture with the antique cheese delivery truck.
42 rue du General Leclerc, 14140 Livarot, +33 2 31 48 20 10
Sleep It Off
Chateau Les Bruyères is an 18th century stud farm just outside the town of Cambremer, down a tree-lined driveway from the main road. They still have a few horses you can ride, as well as a swimming pool. The rooms, which start at 95 euros a night, are typically small, but very nicely furnished with a mix of antique French décor and modern touches like flatscreens and free WiFi. One of the hotel’s best features is the onsite restaurant, which is one of the best in the area, with an ever-changing menu based on what the chef finds at farmers’ markets and in his very own vegetable garden out back. The list of ciders is also the most impressive we came across in the area.
Route du Cadran, 14340 Cambremer, +33 2 31 32 22 45
Your Bit Of Trivia: Le Trou Normand
Because of its agricultural bounty, Normandy is known for some of the richest foods in France. The meals are long, lavish affairs with several courses, usually including seafood, meat, cheese and, of course, cider. To cope with the digestion process, Normans (yes, that’s what they’re called) take a shot of calvados between some of the courses. Popular saying has it that the liquor is so strong that it burns a hole through the food in your stomach, allowing you to continue with the meal. Hence the saying, "le trou normand," or "the Norman hole."
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