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The Perfect Daytrip from Paris: Champagne Tasting in Reims

Where: Reims, France
May 18, 2009 at 4:06 PM | by EricRosen | 0 Comments

All this week Jaunted contributor Eric Rosen will be filling us in on his recent field trip, drinking his way through France. Any questions about what he saw, did and drank? Let us know.

You might not have heard of Reims, but it is the biggest city in the French region of Champagne. Several factors make Reims the perfect out-of-town daytrip from Paris. It takes less than an hour to get there. There is plenty to explore around the small city, so you don’t need to bother with a rental car. And did we mention that there is plenty of champagne to sample here? What more do you need?

Le Train
Getting from Paris to Reims is easy enough on the TGV, with over a dozen trains a day each way, with the direct ones taking only about 45 minutes and costing under $30 each way. The only note of caution is that many trains stop at the Champagne-Ardenne station, so pay attention when buying your ticket to make sure it goes all the way to Reims itself.

Les Monuments
Reims is a city with an extremely rich history. It was once the capital of the Frankish Empire (we’re talking Clovis and Charlemagne for you history dorks), and certain sights like the Porte de Mars date back to Roman times, when the city was a Gaulish trading post.

Cathedral: One of the most famous cathedrals in the world, Reims is where the Kings of France came to be crowned, starting with Clovis in the 6th century. In 1429, Joan of Arc even led a daring military expedition through enemy territory so she could accompany the dauphin here and watch him be crowned Charles VII. Some of the building’s finer points include a unique double rose window in the façade—which was only possible using the latest 13th-century technology—and some gorgeous stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. Our secret tip: be sure to stop at the Cathedral’s entrance and admire the Laughing Angel. In a rare depiction of heavenly mirth, he smiles down at the church’s entrants, and has become the symbol of the city.

Basilica of St. Remi: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the breathtaking Romanesque Basilica is a little off the tourist track, so you won’t have to deal with the throngs of visitors that mob the Cathedral. The gorgeous architecture of the Basilica was lovingly restored after it was nearly destroyed in World War I, and it stands where the home of St. Remi, who baptized King Clovis in the year 496, used to be. There’s a statue commemorating the event, but the real draw is the building itself, so be sure to walk all the way around it.

Palais du Tau: Named for its T-shape, the Palais du Tau was the bishop’s palace in the city, and is now a museum containing sculptures from the Cathedral, and works of art and coronation items donated by French royalty.

Bibliotèque Carnegie: Check out the Art Nouveau façade of this gorgeous 20th-century library building, complete with neo-Egyptian columns and some seriously stylish lettering on capital. You might even be lucky enough to step inside on a day it’s open to the public so you can pore over the lavish interiors and rare manuscripts.

Place Drouet D’Erlon: Named after one of Napoleon’s Marshals who hailed from Reims, this plaza is more like a wide, pedestrianized boulevard of shops and restaurants where you can window-shop and people-watch.

A Votre Santé!
Let’s be honest. The real reason you - and practically everybody - are interested in going to Reims is for the champagne-tasting. After all, this is the home of that sparkling, golden elixir of the gods, and there’s no place better to taste it than where it has been made for hundreds of years. Two of our favorites?

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin: Learn all about the lady and the company named after her that revolutionized the way champagne is made, and the way we drink it today through such innovations as stronger glass bottles, “riddling” the bottles to distribute the alcohol-producing yeast, and international trading networks. She was one tough 19th-century businesswoman. Today, you can take a tour through the deep chalk caves, or crayères where the champagne is stored. Only, be sure to call well in advance for a tour, which costs 13 euros and includes a glass of the house bubbly, since they tend to fill up far in advance. 1 Place Des Droits-de-L'Homme, 51100 Reims, +33 3 26 89 54 41

Taittinger: Another name famous the world over, Taittinger produces some very fine wines, especially their premium chardonnay-only Comtes de Champagne. Whereas the Veuve Clicquot tour is sort of like an episode of Biography, Taittinger is more like Great Castles of Europe because you learn about the Taittinger family’s Chateau de la Marquetterie outside Epernay, the historical Palais des Comtes de Champagne in Reims, and the crayères themselves, which lie underneath the ruins of a medieval abbey where the monks made wine for centuries. 9 Place St. Nicaise, 51100 Reims, +33 3 26 85 45 35

Here is a handy map of some of the other major champagne houses in the city.

Où Manger?
You’re going to need to line your stomach to handle all that champagne, so try a few of these places.

Café Du Palais: Just a block from the Cathedral, this…eccentrically…decorated brasserie offers a full menu of classic dishes from the region, and makes for a convenient lunch stop. 14 Place Myron Herrick, 51100 Reims, +33 3 26 47 52 54

Boyer Les Crayères: One of the best known restaurants in France thanks to star chef Gerard Boyer, Les Crayères is just outside the city at the famous Hotel Les Crayères. Tasting menus start at 185 euros, but this will be a meal you remember for the rest of your life. 64 Boulevard Henri Vasnier, BP 1019, 51685 Reims, +33 3 26 82 80 80

Le Millenaire: Another great, gourmet option right in the heart of the city. The chef trained with Boyer, and the menu is a lot more reasonably priced here, though just as inventive. 4-6 rue Bertin, 51100 Reims, +33 3 26 08 26 62

Grand Café: While the food and wine won’t blow you away, the Grand Café’s location right at the end of the Place Drouet D’Erlon, and just a few blocks from the train station, makes it the perfect place to have a little snack before hopping back on the TGV to Paris. 95 Place D’Erlon, 51100 Reims, +33 3 26 4761 50

Your Bit Of Historical Banter: According to lore, champagne was invented by a blind monk named Dom Perignon at the Abbey of Hautvilliers outside Epernay. The wine had accidentally undergone a second fermentation, producing bubbles. Legend has it that, upon tasting the first champagne, Dom Perignon cried out to his fellow monks, “Come quickly, for I have tasted the stars!” Unfortunately, the story has been disproven, but it still makes for a romantic tale.

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