Jaunted

I can't remember seeing a to-go coffee cup my entire trip, because it just isn't done in Rome. Coffee is served at the bar, standing up, and only after you've paid (usually about €1 for a cappuccino, €.65 for espresso alone) are you allowed to flag down the bartender and place your order. Sip it slowly or quickly, but don't think about sitting down: The closer you get to the city center, the quicker bartenders will be to gallantly offer you a table -- and then double your price for the privilege. Since I sustained myself largely on cappuccinos that first hazy day, that proved to be an ally in the battle against jet lag.

A few more rules about eating in Rome, the breaking of which could adversely affect your wallet or your stomach:

Lunch should fit in your hand. It's not just tourists who cherish the notion of the three-course Italian meal -- locals probably miss it too. As with the Spanish siesta, the idea of a prolonged lunch has been squashed by the nefarious demands of global business, so Italian tourists are more likely to grab a panino or a slice than sit down for a few hours' relaxation. This is not to say that you can't enjoy a prolonged mid-day meal, but consider skipping it for a day or two -- hey, leaves room for snacks.

Real gelato doesn't advertise. Romans eat gelato as an afternoon snack, but there's an easy way to tell an authentic gelateria from the Italian equivalent of Baskin Robbins: Shops with the generic national brand carry a pastel sign of three scoops in a cone (brown, green and pink, if we remember correctly), which is sometimes accompanied by a sign reading "Homemade." In our experience, there is no bad gelato -- a cone from the stand at the base of the Vittorio Emanuele II monument hit the spot one hot afternoon -- but go out of your way to try artisanal flavors at places like Il Gelato di San Crispino (42 Via della Panetteria).

Dinner includes a drink. Teetotalers beware: The waiters of Rome are on a quest to ruin you. Not really, but the glass of wine (or, occasionally, cocktail) is an essential element in your sit-down meal. (Later this week I'll visit the local source of some of that delicious vino.) At one pizzeria a couple blocks from St. Peter's, a waiter literally held the bill hostage while I tried to explain to him that no, I was just fine without an aperitif. Before I knew it, I was nervously eyeing a shot of limoncello. It was delicious! And probably a ploy to get me to stay longer and later order another coffee for the long walk back, but I didn't mind.

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