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Slow Travel: NYT Guy Takes Amtrak Across the USA

March 7, 2009 at 4:02 PM | by Victor Ozols | 3 Comments

We've often lamented the sad state of the U.S. passenger rail system, especially when it's compared to other countries, but when it comes down to it, Amtrak is not nearly as bad as its detractors would have you believe. For example, did you know that it's possible to take a train from New York City to Emeryville, California (near San Francisco) in less than four days? It is, and if you're able to add an extra couple of days you can visit a string of neat towns without ever needing an automobile. A writer from the New York Times recently did just that, taking a January journey through the heart of America that he chronicles in an interesting story in this weekend's Travel Section, and it makes us want to ride the rails ourselves.

The train is a perfect place for a writer to ruminate on what it all means, and Andy Isaacson comes up with several conclusions in the ample time he had to look at the scenery and befriend fellow passengers. For example, the billboards and neon signs that are so prevalent along the highways are virtually nonexistent along the cross-country railroad tracks, providing a rare break from the barrage of marketing that greets us with every car trip.

Furthermore, train passengers are more outgoing and open to conversation than airplane passengers, with everyone from retired cops to Amish farmers sharing their life stories and railroad memories in the dining car and dome-roofed observation car. But the real difference between rail travel and flying or driving is the relationship to time. Sure, delays are frequent, but they seem not to annoy long-distance travelers much. Once people are comfortably aboard a train, the minor setbacks that are so catastrophic in other situations are just the price you pay for the pleasure of rolling across the country on rails.

Four days in a train is a long time compared to five hours in an airplane, but for the philosophers among us who believe that the path itself is the destination, it's heaven. As for us, we lack the luxury of time to appreciate such a perspective. But if they could cut the journey down to two days, it just might be worth it.

[Photo: The New York Times]

Related Stories:
· Riding the Rails [The New York Times]
· Amtrak [Official Site]
· Surviving an 18-Hour Delay on Amtrak's Coast Starlight [Jaunted]

3 Comments

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  1. MossiDivo

    Jaunted Member

    Always Fantastic!

    My friend and I went on the New York- Emeryville trip last summer and it was fantastic, with a few exceptions, but mostly anything that went wrong was just great fodder for great stories (thanks to our cabin attendant Reggie)! We met people from all walks of life, from a loaded couple from Naples, to a guy that was taking his whole family to CA for less than half the price it would have been to fly the family to CA. Food was, well, fine, but get used to the same options everynight, and the delays you have to take in stride, since we arrived in Emeryville 8 hours late. That being said, you must get a roomette or cabin, because I just couldnt imagine sitting in a regular seat for four days!!! We did on our first leg to Chicago, and it was horrendous once night fell and you wanted to be in bed!! I would certainly do it again!!! Try it!
    March 8, 2009 at 3:23 AM
  1. travelina

    Jaunted Member

    long-distance Amtrak travel

    One of my daughters has taken Amtrak's Coast Starlight from LA to San Francisco and back twice, and as an alternative to train food, she found a pizza place along the route that would deliver a hot steaming pie to the platform where they had a "get out and stretch" stop -- and ended up sharing with grateful fellow passengers.
    March 8, 2009 at 5:29 PM
  1. u22

    Jaunted Member

    Waste of funding

    The only problem is that Amtrak cross country trains are both ridiculously slow, expensive compared to an airline, and a massive money looser for Amtrak. Amtrak has several fantastic lines on the east coast; the Keystone service and NE corridor are practical alternatives to driving, and through these lines Amtrak has shown that they can offer decent rail transit, but by wasting money on slow, long lines that no sane person would take, Amtrak as a whole suffers. The eastern lines should be removed from the others, and either undergo privatization, or have a separate funding pool so that the capital is used in regions where it does the most good.
    March 9, 2009 at 12:03 PM

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