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French Toast, Champagne, and Rosé-filled Flamingo Bongs: Brunch Gets Naughty in Manhattan

March 14, 2009 at 12:23 PM | by Victor Ozols | 0 Comments

I'm a huge fan of breakfast, but for some reason, brunch has never done it for me. It just seems like such a wishy-washy compromise between breakfast and lunch, where neither an omelet or a salad seems quite right, and the brief euphoria of the Bellini that's included in the prix fixe soon gives way to a sense of exhaustion that lasts the rest of the day. But maybe I'm just not doing it right. The New York Times has a pretty wild story today about the rise of brunch as an intense daytime party for New York's beautiful people. In other words, my problem isn't drinking that one Bellini, it's not drinking five more.

There are two restaurants in Manhattan's Meatpacking District that draw models and the bankers who chase them to their renowned dance party brunches: Bagatelle, on W. 13th Street, and Merkato 55 at 55 Gansevoort. Bagatelle supposedly kick-started the latest Saturday brunch party craze last April with its French Riviera theme, constantly-flowing rosé, and hard-to-get reservations. Merkato 55 came along a few months later, with an African theme and a, well, slightly different use for rosé. The Times describes the brunch scene there one afternoon this way:

By 4 p.m., the place was wall-to-wall bodies, and people were taking hits from a rosé-filled bong in the shape of a flamingo.

It's funny how they just salt that little detail into the story and then move on to the mystery of who can actually still afford the three-, four-, and even five-figure bills that come with such decadent outings. The answer: bankers. Many of them had enough money put away from before that they can still afford the indulgence. As for the rest, one banker summarized it in a way that might make you want to punch him: “If you’d asked me in October, I’d say it’d be a different situation, and I don’t think I’d be here. Then the government gave us $10 billion.”

However the checks are being paid, I guess it's good that there's still some economic activity going on in the city. Maybe the rich and beautiful can party the whole country back into economic health. In the meantime, we'll stick to the bagel-and-coffee routine, saving our shenanigans for the night.

[Photo: The New York Times]

Related Stories
· Uncorked [The New York Times]
· Bagatelle [BlackBook]
· Merkato 55 [Official Site]
· Brunch Coverage [Jaunted]

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