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New Haven's Pepe Pizzeria: Giving NY Pizza Some Serious Competition Since 1925

Where: 157 Wooster Street [map], New Haven, CT, United States, 06511
February 28, 2009 at 4:27 PM | by Victor Ozols | 4 Comments

After we left the Peabody Museum last Sunday, we headed over to Original Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana to pick up a couple of pizza pies.

I knew nothing of New Haven's famous pizzerias until the previous evening, when a friend took me aside to explain the age-old rivalry between Frank Pepe and Sally's Apizza, the two Wooster Street restaurants that have defined New Haven-style pizza for generations. Our friends were partial to Pepe's, so we ordered one pie with "mootz," (mozzarella, which counts as a topping), marinara sauce, sausage, and onions, and another with mootz, marinara, pepperoni, and mushrooms. If it wasn't the best pizza I'd ever had in my life, it was at least in the top five, and I'm left pondering the unthinkable: could New Haven-style pizza be better than New York-style pizza?

We arrived at Pepe's just in time to see the pizza men pull the pies out of the ancient coal-fired oven and place them on the counter. As they bubbled in front of me, I was struck by their imperfection. Rather than having the sauce spread out uniformly in a perfect circle, it was splashed around haphazardly, running to the edge of some slices and yielding a jagged rorschach blot of Italian goodness. The sausage and onions were perfectly browned, and the pepperoni slices were smaller than I'm used to, their edges curling upward and blackened from the fire. It seemed like an eternity before we got to the house to eat.

Once we were able to dig in, all conversations fell silent, with six of us munching, slurping, and shaking our heads in wonder at the delicate interplay of flavors. I've long been partisan to thin-crust pizza, and the crust of a Pepe's pie is as good as it gets, the perfect combination of crispy, chewy, and ever-so-slightly burnt. I could have eaten a whole pie, but it would have been impolite. Washing the slices down with a bottle of Harp, I began to see the benefits of living in Connecticut: good museums, amazing pizza, and easy access to New York and Boston.

Is it enough to get me to abandon Brooklyn for New Haven? Not yet, but I'd happily take another field trip to sample the ah-beetz from Sally's. If it's half as good as Pepe's, I just might be sold on the idea.

[Photo: Victor Ozols[

Related Stories
· Original Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana [Official Site]
· Sally's Apizza [Official Site]
· Dinosaurs, Darwin, and Bighorn Rams: An Afternoon at New Haven's Peabody Museum [Jaunted]

4 Comments

Post a Comment
  1. kjb

    Jaunted Contributing Editor

    There's No Better Place

    Next time get the white clam pizza too, and wash it down with Foxon Park Birch Beer.

    It's really the best, glad to hear you liked it.

    February 28, 2009 at 9:38 PM
  1. Bernie Davis

    Jaunted Reader

    Pepe's

    Dying to go here!
    March 1, 2009 at 1:34 PM
  1. marikm1222

    Jaunted Member

    sally's is definitely better!

    Which I can say confidently as a local. Modern is another good pizza option if the lines at Pepe's and Sally's are too long. New Haven pizza is amazing, as long as you can take the time to wait and don't expect the waiters to actually care about serving you - they know you'll come back anyway.
    March 1, 2009 at 6:55 PM
  1. Daniel Fromson

    Jaunted Reader

    Sally's is good, also Zuppardi's

    It's not just about Pepe's and Sally's anymore, although I vote for Pepe's as the better of the two. I just went to Zuppardi's in West Haven last week, and that's just about as good. You can check out my review of it at newhavenpizzaproject.com.
    March 1, 2009 at 10:39 PM

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