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A Starbucks Alternative in Valparaiso

Where: Hector Calvo Cofre 205, Valparaiso, Chile
February 4, 2009 at 9:14 AM | by | Comments (0)

West Coast web media princess, and the latest Jaunted Embed, Shira Lazar is making her way through Chile on a top secret travel mission. She will be posting daily for the next week, in hopes of creating a glorious on-the-fly travel guide using as much point oh social webbing as she can. Enjoy.

As we approached our first day in Chile’s Mediterannean heartland, Valparaiso, we left our memories of $4 non-fat, soy, triple lattes and frappucinos behind.

It was 10am on a Saturday, and we sat waiting in a booth at the charming but empty Café El Desayunador (above) for two local Valpo bloggers we’ve never met in person. Desayunador means "breakfaster" in Spanish and according to my email acquaintances, it’s pretty much the only spot that opens early and actually “does breakfast”. Most cafes just offer media lunas (sweet pastries).

Matt Ridgeway, a UK expat who blogs about cities, culture and architecture for Corrugated City, finally arrived with his girlfriend and fellow blogger, Allie. With jetlag still fogging up our brains, we debated on getting a double shot espresso or keeping it zen à la green tea.

I soon found out that there might be a reason why Starbucks hasn’t taken over the coffee culture here--there is none. Caffeine freaks drink Nescafe, which is actually roasted at a local facility and can be found at most restaurants/cafes and carts around town. While there are spots that offer more high-end coffee drinks, Allie is quick to note that since moving here she doesn’t drink as much coffee, simply because Chileans don’t know how to make it properly and it usually ends up sucking! Now that we’ve settled that debate, we’ll let the espresso wars continue between Paris and Italy.

Our second caffeine culture shock came when we discovered that you can’t take anything to go. Say what??? That’s right folks, seems a no "to go" obsession is directly correlated with how calm a city is. We had to confront the fact that we would not be sipping a nice, cold, iced green tea while walking along the winding roads with the Chilean sun beaming down on us. Unlike us hectic Americans, if you’re running late here and need that instant upper, you actually stop, sit down, get your fix and just be well...more late.

So what if Starbucks moved in on Valpo’s laid back territory? After a day liberated from our safety cup, we realized this just might be the one town Starbucks wouldn’t be able to get going on its terms.


UK expat and blogger Matt Ridgeway with his girlfriend and fellow blogger, Allie.


Other reliable spots for caffeine fixes are cafes in Barrio Puerto. Here are the Italian chain Segafredo and Lord Byron cafes.


A wilder alternative is the eclectic boutique/cafe, Paradernalika, on Cerro Alegre.

Related Stories:
· Chile Travel Stories [Jaunted]
· Shira in Chile [Jaunted]

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