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Flavor is the Focus For Top Chef's Eli Kirshtein at Atlanta's ENO

Where: 800 Peachtree Street [map], Atlanta, GA, United States, 30308
November 19, 2009 at 4:44 PM | by | Comments (0)

Spiky-haired, bespectacled Top Chef contestant Eli Kirshtein garnered the ire of Tom Colicchio after serving up what the judge deemed "raw lamb." That's no mark of a master chef, but as we know, even talented artisans are prone to missteps, perhaps owing to the pressure of a major prize and a national audience in the millions.

Off the show, Kirshtein serves as the Executive Chef of Atlanta's ENO Restaurant and Wine Bar. No relation to Brian Eno as far as we can tell, although that would make it infinitely cooler. Like many of his competitors, he's a locavore, sourcing ingredients for ENO's menu from farms and specialty stores around the great state of Georgia.

Kirshtein is not one for frills or showy presentations of overcomplicated techniques, but rather simple Mediterranean-inspired fare that focuses on flavor, as we saw on the show. He also worked alongside former Top Chef hopeful Richard Blais, but he's seemingly developed a style all his own. Still, we're curious to know how much Blais' penchant for molecular gastronomy has influenced Kirshtein's approach.

To learn a little more, we turned to the menu, which conveniently lays out wine pairings with each dish. Island Creek Oysters with Pickled Swiss Chard might go with Muscadet; Georgia Quail with an Onion Ragout is suggested with a Grenache-Syrah-Carignan blend; an entree of Braised Short Rib with Cipollini Onions and Sunchokes Two Ways might go with Tempranillo.

The dishes are in keeping with Kishtein's background and philosophy. The menu isn't about showing off, being weird for the sake of weird, or presenting pretentious dishes that alienate diners. Fresh ingredients done right—it's that simple.

If you're hoping to host a party and would like the full ENO experience for you and your guests, you can enquire about booking the Private Dining Room, which seats 24-26 seated, or something more intimate like the Wine Cellar, which holds 14-16 seated. That way you can shamelessly gush over your Coffee Semifreddo or Goat Cheese Cake for dessert, and not worry so much about whether the crumbs falling across you face make you look uncouth to other diners.

Related Stories
· ENO Restaurant and Wine Bar [Official Site]
· Robin Leventhal of 'Top Chef' Pushes Truffled Popcorn In Seattle [Jaunted]
· Top Chef coverage [Jaunted]

[Photo: Bravo]

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