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The Rhine, The Wine and All That's Fine Near Frankfurt

Where: Kallenfelsstrasse, 25-27, Bernkastel-Kues, Germany, 54470
October 26, 2009 at 5:16 PM | by | Comment (1)

All this week Eric Rosen will be giving us ideas for some different day trips that you can take from Frankfurt. Any questions or suggestions? Let us know!

You might not have heard of the jewel-box town of Bernkastel-Kues, nestled on the banks of Germany’s Mosel River, but as home to some of the world’s most famous Riesling producers, it is one of the most visited wine destinations in Europe.

A Ride on the Autobahn:
To get there, you can take a two-hour train ride from Frankfurt to the town of Wittlich, about 13 miles away and hop on a bus from there…or you could just be lazy and rent a car at the Frankfurt airport and make the two-hour drive on the autobahn yourself. We’d suggest the latter, but just be sure to rent a car that’s on the small side since the cobbled streets in town are unbelievably narrow.

History Dork-Out:
The town derives its hyphenated name from the fact that it is actually two towns: Bernkastel and Kues. Bernkastel, which actually means “Bear Castle” thanks to a few folkloric legends, has been inhabited since before Roman times (even back then, they were making wine), and has all the picturesque trappings you could want, including a ruined castle that was once the seat of the powerful archbishops of Trier, half-timbered houses colorfully painted with pagan symbols to ward off goblins and witches, a sculpture of bears playing in a fountain, and even a building in the main square whose façade transforms into an Advent Calendar in December. Quaint!

The steep slopes on both sides of the river are absolutely covered with the Riesling vines that have made this region famous, and the hills just above the city are the location of one of the world’s most well-known vineyards, the Doktor vineyard, whose wine was said in medieval times to have healing properties.

The Vinothek, A Wine Library:
So now that we’re talking about wine, let’s get to the real attraction of this city, which is the municipal Vinothek across the river in Kues. Located just across a lane from the historic Saint Nikolaus Hospital (and an actual rare-books library there), the Vinothek contains a boutique and café at ground level where you pay 15 euros per person and receive a tasting glass. Then you head downstairs into the old vaulted cellars and can sample over 150 wines from the region including the famous Rieslings in dry, semi-dry and sweet, as well as sparkling varieties.

The bottles are just sitting out on barrels for you to help yourself, and you can try as many as you like—though there are also spittoons so that you don’t overdo it. Then, when you’ve decided on what you like, you simply grab a bottle from the cases sitting next to the barrels, and pay for it upstairs. Forget Dewey Decimal, we’re much more into this system.

Lest you think there’s no learning to be learned here, though, there is also a wine museum next door with a 5 euro admission fee that shows little films about wine, and houses interactive stations that take you through not only the history and ecology of the region, but also every step of the wine-making process. By the time you’re done, you’ll practically be prepared to make your own wine!

Stay A While:
Since the town is a little far from Frankfurt for a daytrip, you might consider staying overnight. There are several hotels in town, but the fairytale-themed Marchenhotel Anno 1640 is a good option with rooms starting at 69 euros a night. For dinner, consider the hotel’s own restaurant, or try either the gourmet Rotisserie Royale just around the corner from the hotel, or the timbered, centuries-old Doctor Weinstube restaurant for a more "authentic" ambiance before a digestive post-dinner stroll along the river banks.

Related Stories:
· Vinothek [Official Site]

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You Gotta B Kidding Me

Okay, I am going to be a bit brutal here. My first discovery as a member is a half a--- report about Burnkastel. Unfortunately for anyone living near, or having ever been to the Mosel villages in this area. Some hazy pics of wine barrels and a passing attempt at knowing. Did you happen to look up at the castle while you were there? Or a billion hectares of vineyards escaped the witting mind? I know no writer can capture, nor least of all take a million images of such places. My point is, if you can't do some justice to a place, don't write about it. No wonder people around the world have such a dim view of their neighbors. Sorry, I don't usually complain in comments, but I do work hard to encapsulate such places too. Always, Phil

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