The Egg: A Symbol of Life. Also: A Great Spot for Brekkie in Brooklyn
We had a day off in the middle of the week not long ago and decided to go out for lunch in the neighborhood. Having heard many rave reviews of Egg, a newish restaurant on N. 5th and Bedford in Williamsburg, we popped in to see if it lived up to the hype.
Egg is a small, modest joint specializing in breakfast, though they now have lunch and dinner menus as well. Their gimmick, if it can be called that, is that they use only free-range eggs, pasture-raised meats, and artisanal everything else. The atmosphere is casual and airy, with wooden tables and chairs that feel like they were taken from a third-grade classroom circa 1965. A cup of crayons lets you doodle on the paper tablecloth as you wait for your meal. Jenn made a quick sketch of the tattoo on the back of a girl at the next table, a skull and crossbones with angel/devil wings and flames, perhaps a tribute to lost love or something. The crayon drawing looked better than the actual tattoo.
Jenn ordered the Eggs Rothko, an egg in a slice of brioche with broiled tomatoes and a side of Col. Bill Newsom's country ham. I had a steak sandwich made from ribeye (my favorite cut) on Italian bread with Roquefort cheese. Both dishes were lovely, delivering the satisfaction derived from diner food with the culinary touch of a real chef using high-end ingredients. The only complaint we had was that the good colonel's ham was ringed with a generous layer of fat which could have been trimmed a little better. No big whoop. My steak sandwich was a perfect medium rare, and the Roquefort was both tangy and complex.
The big surprise at Egg came with the bill. Based on all the fawning praise, I expected the prices to be closer to Balthazar's than the Kellogg Diner, but our check came in at under $30. Egg seems to have found a pleasant middle ground between humble diner and fancy restaurant. That it breaks new ground in the use of sustainable ingredients - they own their own farm in Upstate New York - makes it all the more worthy of accolades.
[Photo: Victor Ozols]