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Embedded Travel Guide Cambodia: Island Paradise

Where: Cambodia
August 27, 2008 at 12:45 PM | by | Comments (2)

This week, our Cambodia embed, Tim Patterson, is giving us the inside scoop on the country, live from a guesthouse in Sihanoukville.

Remember The Beach? The excellent Alex Garland novel, later made into a crappy movie that even Leonardo DiCaprio couldn't save, depicted a group of backpackers who created their own paradise on a remote Thai island.

The uber-backpackers of The Beach braved shark attacks and drug lords to escape the tourist development that was consuming the Thai islands. Turns out, they could have just crossed over to Cambodia instead.

The Cambodian islands are just as lovely as anything in Thailand, but for the moment, there's barely any tourist infrastructure on the beaches. A few bungalow spots have opened in the past few years, and there are plans for mega-resorts in the future, but for now you're free to live out your deserted island fantasy.

Koh Tonsay
Located just off the coast of Kep, Koh Tonsay has a few decent beaches, one simple row of bungalows and great views across the sea to Bokor Mountain. Long-tail boats go to Koh Tonsay every morning from Kep. Aim to pay about $7 per person, round-trip.

Koh Russei
Koh Russei is one of the islands closest to Sihanoukville and was one of the first to get any tourist infrastructure. Also called Bamboo Island, the beaches on Koh Russei aren't anything special, but the bungalows there are nice and it's easy to get to. Ferries run daily from Sihanoukville and cost about $8 per person, round-trip.

Koh Rong Samluem
Koh Rong Samluem is a large island two hours from Sihanoukville. There are two collections of bungalows here, along with one village and a small navy base where bored sailors greet travelers with warm beer and boiled squid.

The EcoSea Bungalows are right next to a village and best suited for scuba divers, while the Lazy Beach Resort on the far side of the island appeals to travelers looking for total isolation and basic creature comforts.

Koh Rong
Koh Rong is a huge island three hours from Sihanoukville with a beach on the southwest shore that is simply spectacular: It's six kilometers of flawless white sand.

There are several small villages on Koh Rong, but as The Guardian recently reported, the government has sold development rights to the island to a private group that will evict all islanders, with no plans as of yet for compensation.

A bungalow complex called Snake Eyes is located at the southern end of the epic beach, but when I visited last week it was abandoned--apart from a pit viper and a two lonesome dogs.

Koh Tang
Scene of the last battle of the Vietnam War, Koh Tang is a scuba diver's paradise way offshore in the Gulf of Thailand. It takes a full day to get there, so you're best off going on a fully equipped dive boat.

Why make the effort? Well, have you heard of Thailand's Koh Tao? Apparently the diving at Koh Tang is even better.

Related Stories:
· Tim's Complete Guide to Koh Rong [Matador Travel]
· Cambodia Travel coverage [Jaunted]

[Photos by the immensely talented Ryan Libre]

Comments (2)

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What a beach

Gotta agree the movie was a bit weak but the scenery was pretty impressive.

Don't use EcoSea

Wanted to escape the city/town and get to a quiet island, do some diving and snorkelling and chilax. Got good intro to package from European dive master trainee. I asked who I'd be diving with and was told with local guides. I asked if they are qualified DMs - they were not I was told. I asked if I could always dive with a trainee DM and was assured yes. I gave the reason of having bad experiences in the past with unqualified local guides. Paid for 2 nights and 4 dives for myself and girlfriend. I wish i had read the negative reviews on here first because the bungalow on the island was horrible. We don't mind basic, but dirty is not good for the price we were paying (around US$50 per night incl food). The floor had not been swept, the toilet floor had nails, bits of cement, and dirt on it (from removal of old roof by the looks of it), and the bed sheet cover and pillow had not been washed for more than a week or several guests. The bed stank. There was no soap provided at all. The manager later told me we don't want people using soap. I asked about the hygiene issue of washing after the toilet, then she said "you should bring your own!" - she thinks she is being eco-friendly by not providing soap. Tight ass more like it. Everyone using their own soap, rather than her buying something biodegradable in a refillable format (like a pump action bottle filled from a large container [as ALL the worlds' hotels should be using!]). As for being an eco-venture, this makes me laugh because there were 4 different pieces of rubbish at the bottom of the bungalow's stairs (see photo) and all over the surrounding area where the bungalows were located!! They don't even bother to clean up the whole area where the bungalows are located. Nevermind the adjacent fishing village polluting the water and not following EcoSea's education attempts - EcoSea can't even pick up rubbish on the land it is leasing from the fishing village!! Just in it for the money I suspect and using the eco in the business name to attract business. It's sad how often businesses these days are doing this. We walked through the dirty fishing village to another set of bungalows and there were nice plants and landscaping and no litter - so pleasant and a good example to the village. Wished we were staying there. Anyhow, our peaceful retreat to this imagined paradise was a dream really because the village now can afford a loud karaoke sound system which they crank on at 10pm until around 12 or 1am and their new, bigger boats loudly chug past throughout the night to catch as many fish as they can. Woken at 6.15 by the air compressor for the scuba tanks and construction workers building the next bungalow right next door (which of course we were not told about when we paid). Food was fairly good and the crew that I dived with were attentive although after we got back to the mainland, another couple complained their guides did not stay with them when they should of. The drunk owner said "ah, you a Padi certified diver, look after yourself" forgetting that we were paying him to provide guides!! This guy was a disgrace to Cambodian people. He would not give me a refund for the 2nd night or the 4th dive I was not able to do. He sat there smoking, drinking more beer with this smug look on his face because his military police buddy was smoking next to him. He said the F word to my girlfriend and was had no valid reason not to refund my US$60. Pure dickhead. Wish I had used another dive shop and went to a different island (find one as far from the fishing village as possible.

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