Jill Nawrocki is a volunteer in Namibia, a travel blog star and a former Jaunted contributing editor. Is there anything this girl can't do? This week, she's sharing with us her adventures in the southwest African nation.
Etosha National Park is Namibia's largest game park, biggest tourist destination and, of course, the best place for spotting the Big Five. And while most people rock the all-inclusive tour with a driver, camping gear and guide, we decided to do it on our own--in 24 hours. Sure, the park is big and a longer stay would probably have been better. But Namibia is a vast country with lots to see and we were on a tight schedule.
Getting There:
We entered at the park's East Gate in Tsumeb at sunrise. (The town's Shop Rite is a perfect place to stock up on a last-minute picnic lunch if you're on a budget.) The first stop was Namutoni Lodge's watering hole. The N$80 ($10) fee covers the cost of park entrance for both you and your vehicle, plus all the game you can spot.
Unfortunately, our first watering hole proved somewhat fruitless, with just a handful of zebra drinking away. Still, there's something amazing about witnessing an animal you've only seen at the zoo in its natural habitat.
Getting Around:
The park office offers maps of the Etosha, which include seasonal watering holes off the well-traveled main roads. These proved empty in terms of the Big Five, but getting off the path meant a chance to view some smaller game, like gemsbok, wildebeest, oryx and springbok. We also spotted a herd of giraffe--that refused to yield, which meant we had to stop and wait.
Etosha's main road is accessible to any vehicle, but travelers wanting a real view of the big game should consider forgoing the sedan in favor of a 4x4. This will allow access to all roads, and the higher vantage point of an SUV will put you well above the bush. It's possible to do most of Etosha in a sedan (we did) but it's not recommended. (And who wants to get a flat in the midst of a pride of lions, anyway?)
Eating:
We stopped at Halai Lodge for lunch, but the only thing available was the buffet. And at N$60 for the salad bar and N$120 for the full Monty, we should have just packed a picnic when we had the chance. As usual, beverages weren't included. And at N$8 or N$10 a pop (N$14 for a beer), they add up quickly if you're trying to quench a thirst. Though the food was neither good nor bad, the view of the pan from the nearby Etosha look out point was breathtaking, making this place worth the stop.
The Wildlife:
Daytime watering holes may have been less than exciting (although still something to experience, no doubt), so we opted for a night game drive to top off our day in Etosha. If you're short on time, this is definitely the way to go--and preferable to the sunrise drive, which takes place while some animals are still asleep. Guides know where to look and how to track, and at N$500 per person, it's almost a guarantee you'll leave with a camera full of photos and a real sense of safari. Unlike lodge buffets, the cost of this trip actually included beverages, as well as spotted hyena, a pride of lions and loads of rhino, too.
Staying There:
We stayed the night in Okaukuejo Resort, arguably Etosha's nicest lodge. It offers a variety of options from camping to deluxe accommodations. But prices are constantly changing, so it's best to lock in a room (particularly during peak season of June-September, when animal viewing is at its best) and a price. The rate includes a breakfast buffet. The dinner buffet, N$150 was slightly more expensive than the one offered at Halai, but much more delicious.
Okaukuejo is also home to the liveliest watering hole in all of Etosha. Lodgers have 24-hour access, so wildlife fanatics can perch at vantage points until the wee hours of the morning, checking the Big Five off their life lists. It's the perfect place for spotting elephants and rhinos (which we saw a lot of), and it doesn't even require a car.
Related Stories:
· Namibia Wildlife Resorts [Official Site]
· Jaunted Embedded Travel Guide: Namibia [Jaunted]
· Africa Travel coverage [Jaunted]
[Photo: Olivier]
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by jnaw
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