Jaunted

Petite, well-dressed women guide English, German and Vietnamese-speaking groups around the palace, pointing out brightly carpeted rooms with long tables where the Hanoi government meets when it's in town.

"What about the local government, where does it meet?" we asked. The guide looked at us, confused. Apparently there's no translation for the term "local government" in Vietnam. "One government," she replied, and the conversation ended.

The modern building, reconstructed after many demolitions, is a beacon of boxy, imposing Communist architecture. The basement is the best part, with its narrow walkways and 1960s-era telephones, maps and telegraph equipment. From there, the South Vietnamese once coordinated the war effort, protected by earth and thick cement from aerial attacks.

The bedroom of the country's then-president also remains intact. You'll find one bed but two phones--one for his wife and one for his girlfriend. Apparently our leaders aren't so different!

Nearby, another museum commemorates David's triumph over Goliath. The front yard of the War Remnants Museum displays Vietnam's collection of US tanks and warplanes like a child's toy chest. Inside, fetuses deformed by Agent Orange sit in formaldehyde, and graphic imagery from the war remind visitors why they should still be angry about it.

Around the corner at the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City, storyboards recall 1950-1970 with nostalgia and pride. Underneath images of worldwide protests, plaques explain the world's support of Communist Vietnam. We thought the message was peace? Guess not.

Within walking distance of one another, all three museums are do-able in a day, and each deserves a visit. They close by 5:30 pm and cost about $1.

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· Southeast Asia Field Trip [Jaunted]