Jaunted

We hadn't heard much about the tiny village of Port St. Johns, and therefore, had no idea what to expect. But as we neared the coast the hills rose up beside us, the houses became closer and the foliage thicker. In felt like we were driving through an African rainforest.

We had just one day to spend in this out of the way place and wanted to make the most of it. But arriving late meant there was only time for a curry dinner at the hostel's bar and a few beers with the locals while taking in the spectacular ocean view.

But the next morning we rose early. Tim, the hostel's owner, offers free surf lessons daily to visitors, but since we didn't have a board, we opted for a seaside hike with Mbongi--who goes by the nickname Bongs. One of the friendly locals at Amapondo, Bongs explained that he was from a village at the top of the cliffs, and was eager to share details about his Xhosa culture--as well as ask many about ours.

We hiked through dense forest to a clearing on the hills, then climb over rock and down a steep gorge to the Blow Hole. This natural rock formation on the ocean's edge spits sprays of water every time the waves crash in.

Our morning hike was followed by an afternoon snack and more stories from Bongs at the Delicious Monster. This quiet café sits on a rocky ledge and is accessible only by foot. About 10 minutes from Amapondo, it's the ideal spot for dining al fresco. Monkeys played in the treetops and our cozy picnic bench offered perfect views of the Indian Ocean.

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