Jaunted

Anthony somehow cooked a piece of sturgeon so that it had the texture of a really good piece of ahi, thick yet supple and a lingering mouth feel more akin to steak. Too many kinds of meat at once? You gotta try it to understand.

The mild flavor of this usually overdone or overwhelmed fish, rose smartly to the top. The ravioli with razor clams was magical. It had some kind of basil broth and the clams were thinly sliced and just chewy enough to be wild but with a less salty flavor -- almost like mini slivers of abalone.

Our sweet breads were lovely little nuggets of really unhealthy meat. And the sea scallops that were my entree were seared and carmelized to perfection. As a bonus, the waiter was extremely heavy on the pour with our by-the-glass wine selections. And by accident the staff brought us two bonus desert platters of almond chocolates and the most amazing freshly made marshmallow squares dusted lightly with bergamot powder -- think early grey souffle.

The service was friendly but not overly so. Our meal lasted nearly three hours and we never felt rushed. In short, the Gramercy Tavern is truly back and as good as ever. Get it while they're hot.