The Vineyard: Pt. II
Funnily enough, the Times did not pay us to head to Martha's Vineyard for the weekend, although we think we can offer up some cooler suggestions:
First off, don't drop $900 on a hotel room (we're sure you already know this). Seriously you want to stay "up island" as Vineyarders say, and you can find something cheaper, remote and way quieter up there. There are charming inns hidden everywhere--we recommend anywhere in West Tisbury/Edgartown (we say avoid somewhere in central Oak Bluffs like the plague if you plan on sleeping). A super cheap alternative is the hostel in West Tisbury (above). We know what you're thinking, uh, I already did that gig in college. Think again. It's often booked solid, the charming cottage is incredibly clean and spacious and you certainly won't be bunking with a bunch of Australian travelers. Clientele ranges from couples to families and we never once were concerned with the security of our stuff. They've got private rooms and family rooms. At $24 a night, it's pretty unbelievable and like a little familiar hotel. Save your money for seafood and a bike rental.
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When you hop off the ferry in Vineyard Haven, head to
Martha's Bikes around the corner where the staff is incredibly helpful and will deliver your chosen bike to any island location so you can unpack first. Make sure to get the helmet, unless you bike on the island's paths, you are about a foot from most cars on the road.
For dinner, try The Sweet Life Cafe in Oak Bluffs. Pricey, but well worth it. Housed in an old Victorian, ambiance is overflowing with tea lights and subtle incense wafting from the patio. Menu options include tons of fresh fish and interesting vegetable combinations, as well as desserts using area fruit. It's about the most charming thing in Oak Bluffs. Some of the famed cottages are a little on the dilapadated side, and the nightlife was too reminiscent of the Jersey shore for us....
In Edgartown, check out the local pubs and be ready to mingle with the polo-collar-up crowd to listen to live music outside. The Newes from America Pub on Kelley St. has an authentic menu, tons of beer and was a Best of the Vineyard 2004.
Get to the beaches early (esp. South and State) and do not miss the cliffs at Gay Head of course. Stop at Alley's General Store (est. 1858!) on State Road on your way out for the day to pick up the essentials for the beach.
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