Alex Salkever is the editor/founder of Hawaii travel blog Hawaiirama.com
I'd never been to the Gramercy Tavern. I feared I had missed the joint at its prime, what with Danny Meyer busy opening restaurants, Tom Collichio gone AWOL opening sandwich shops and Craft clones, and the kitchen adrift with no clear direction and no iron chef to steady the pans on the piano.
Then I read NY Times food critic Frank Bruni's revisitation treatise on the nascent revival of this Gotham classic. According to the controversial Bruni (many foodies hate his reviews), Gramercy Tavern was back on track thanks to the steadied hand of Michael Anthony, a chef who made a name at Blue Hill (aka Chez Panisse East).
So on this trip to the Big Apple I thought I'd test drive Bruni's three-star review. The verdict? Bruni was right on.
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