Many sell clothes, onions, pirated DVDs, Barbie dolls, car parts, small desiccated mammals for magic rituals. The poorest alteños employ themselves as beasts of burden. All of them battle hopeless traffic, a constant scarcity of fuel and water, the dull fatigue of numbing labor, the odds that are stacked against them. When they're done working, they need to play.
Checking out a match is easy enough: At the event National Geographic attended, three rows of seats were full up with foreigners, and tickets were selling for $1.50.
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